LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



n 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



.ilPRACTICAL HAND-BOOKk^. 



FOE SELF-INSTRUCTION, 

BY 

Franz Otto Vogel, 




JUN 27 1883. 



'^P WASHING' 



Contains fine wood-pattern Figures accompanying the description for measure 
talcing 55 Models. Instruction to create any possible pattern for Gentle- 
men, liudies and Children. Also for abnormal growth. Descrip- 
tion of the positions of the body of long and short waists. 
Details given of every model, together tvith descrip- 
tion of goods, tvork, fashion, etc., etc. 

It is only necessary to learn measure taking and the outlines of the main model. 

Correctly Arranged to tlie Present Measnrins System. 

ST. XjOTTIS. 2vCO. 
1SS3. 



11 



PREFACE. 

Every one knows that good cutting is considered an art, and 
one can justly say : "to make a good fitting garment to measure 
only, without copy or model, is an artistic achievement. " 

But I, as the inventor of my new cutting system say, to cut a 
good fitting garment, ^-ithout previous and constantly repeated 
fitting, with so few measurements, it is no longer art to cut any 
possible garment for Gent, Lady or Child. 

The whole measurement for the upper body consists of 4 
measui'es, be the garment whatever it may. 

Special attention is called to abnormally formed bodies ; they 
can be as misshapen as ever any human body has been, the mea- 
surements and the cutting remain the same appearance as the form 
of which the measure has been taken. 

The pantaloons require 4 measures also. I claim, that with 
exact measurement, correct drawing of the giodel and careful and 
correct setting-together, no mistakes and differences or changes 
can take place. 

Should it ever occur that a garment does not fit, do not in any 
case cut off anything or think that something might be added here 
and there, but simply open the seams and place the separate pieces 
on the model drawn for the perspn, and you will find that in every 
case the goods have been drawn out of shape by careless ironing, 
or unequal padding, or set wrong together. Every part must be 
equalized and based upon the hip main lines. In this way you can 
satisfy yourself and much material, time and annoyance are saved. 

This hand-book is recommended to those who do custom work 
and to those who have large establishments, for they can construct 
models of running numbers and cut from them ; it is at the same 
time practicable for every family. I also bind myself to answer 
all questions without charge. 

It will afford me great pleasure to answer all communications 
addressed to me on ihe above subject 

FRANZ OTTO VOGEL. 
St. Louis, Mo. 



i:i 



INDEX. 



Pnnctuation of the Body. 



1 
2 

Measure taking 3 

" 4 

Noting of Measure 3 



Description of the Waist 3 4 

Model. 
Description of the main lines. . 1 5 
"..26 


" " main figures 3 


7 


" Sleeves ... 4 


8 


.... 5 


8 


" Collar 6 


9 


" " horizontal posi- 
tion of the body 7 
" " do do 8 


10 
11 


" <' Hunting Jacket 8 
" " Travel'g Cloak 10 


12 
12 


"Ulster 11 


13 


" " Collarpellerine 12 


14 


" " Saque Overcoat 

in 6 parts 13 

" "Havelocks....l4 


15 
16 


"■ "Vest 15 


17 


" "2-buttonedVestl6 


17 


" "Shawl Vest... 17 


18 


" " " ...18 


18 


" of a 2-buttoned Coat 




and Vest. 19 


19 


" " l-"Coat" .20 


20 


" " " " .21 


21 


" "6 parts Paletot. 22 
" Waist Coat... 23 


21 
22 


" " Waist Coat and 




sleeve is omitted24 


23 



Desci 


iption of a Frock Coat 25 


24 




" Coat 26 


24 




' " Livery Coat 27 


25 




' " Policeman Saque 






Coat 28 


26 




' " " Overcoat.. 29 


27 




' " " Dress Coat 30 


27 




' " Spanish Cloak. .31 


28 




' " Clerical Gown.. 32 


29 




" ..33 


30 




" Official Coat... 34 


31 




' " " long " ...35 


32 




' " Uniform 36 


33 




" 37 


34 




' the front part of Pan- 






taloons 38 


35 




' ' ' normal pantaloons 39 


36 




' of the X " 40 


37 




« o " 41 


38 




' " Pantaloons for 






stout men 42 


39 




' " boys' Pantaloons 43 


40 




' " servants' " 44 


40 




' " riding " 45 


40 




' •' Knee Leggings -46 


41 




" Ankle " .47 


41 




' " Ladies Figures.. 48 


42 




" " " ..49 


42 




' " "morning robe 50 


43 




' " " "A Sleeve 51 


43 




" "Jacket 52 


44 




' " " Paletot 53 


45 




" " Waist)acket..54 


46 




' " " Riding Dress 55 


46 



1 — 



Figure 1 




1 — 



PUNCTUATION OF THE BODY. 

1st. Place yourself behind the person whose measure is to be 
taken ; make a mark at the neck (as represented by figure 
No. 1). 

2nd. Lay the tape-measure horizontally across the back in the 
hollow of the shoulder blades, and make a second mark at 
the back seam. 

3rd. Lay the tape-measure back of the neck and draw both ends 
under the arms, the long end being horizontally over the 
shoulder blades at the back seam ; make third mark 

4th. Lay your left hand at the hip, the thumb pointing horizont- 
ally to the backbone, and make fourth mark also on the 
back seam. 

5th. Raise the right arm horizontally, as represented in figure 2, 
hold the tape-measure in the middle of the hollow arm and 
let it fall vertically ; make the fifth mark at the hip. 
At the side of 'the abdomen make the last mark as represented 
in figure 2. 

6th. These marks note with chalk or pencil so that they can be 
plainly seen. On full dress make the marks on the Coat ; 
otherwise make the marks on the Vest and for ladies on the 
Corset. 



Figure 3. 



Figure 4. 




k^ 




MEASURE TAKING. 

The tape-measure must have a little dull hook at the end ; if 

it cannot be had — take a pin, bend it and you have a substitute for 

a hook, 

1st. Fasten the hook at the neck, pass from 1, 2, 3 till 4 ; note 
immediately the length of the garment and write down the 
measures taken, as they follow, as represented in figure 3. 

2nd. Raise the right a little, place the tape-measure under it and 
bring it vertically up to the top of the upper arm, holding it 
so that it will not slip ; fasten the hook of the tape-measure 
at the top of the upper arm and bring it to the back — note 
the width. (Example No. 8). Undo the hook and fasten 
it to the other edge of the tape-measure ; measure the width 
of the upper arm — note the same. (Example No. 9). Fasten 
the hook in the same place, measure the width of one-half 
of the breast — note the same ; as represented by figures 
3 and 4. 

3rd. Place the measure at the hip and measure to the centre of 
the front of the body ; place measure again at the hip and 
measure to point 4. (Note the measure). As represented 
by figures 3 and 4. 

4th. Place firmly and horizontally under the arm a lead-pencil, 
so that it can be seen in front and rear, as seen in figures 
3 and 4. The tape-measure is fastened to the neck, (1st 
mark) brought to the armpit indicated by the lead-pencil ; 
pass it down to the wrist and note the armhole and sleeve 
measure, as in figure 4, No. 32. Attention must be paid 
to the marks, and the tape-measure must not be held too 
tight nor too loose. These are all the measures necessary 
for upper-garments, be they for Gentlemen, Ladies or 
Children. With Uniforms the neck width is necessary. In 
regard to Pantaloons, take measure from the hip to the knee, 
from there to the heel. Step-length, seat-width, knee- and 
bottom- width as fashionable ; as to leggings see Model 44. 



Figure 3. 



Figure 4. 





— 3 



WRITING OR NOTING THE FIGURES 

As represented by figures 3 and 4. 



1st Measure , 

2nd " 

3rd " 

4th 

Pantaloons : 
Knee and !Side-lengths 

Cut- lengths 

Waistband width 

Seat- width 



m 

13J 

16 
24 
28 
32 



9 
32 
32 



26 



28 



Is the person not normall}^ grown, then measure both sides 
and lengths, and construct two models of the upper body and put 
the two halves together. Use the square measure and write above 
it : Right — Left. Special attention is called to the second mea- 
surement, which is explained on page 2 and figures 3 and 4. Do 
not hold with the left hand on the shoulder the tape-measure too 
tight, otherwise you will get a too small armhole and too broad 
back part ; if j'^ou hold it too loose, the front and back part will 
be too narrow. It must be held smoothly. 



DESCRIPTfON OF THE WAIST. 

It is especially the case with gentlemeu that they have too 
long and too short waists. As the}^ give an ungainly appearance^ 
it is necessary to remedy that defect. 

1st example. — Does one measure from the neck to the heel 36 inches 
then is waist-measure 10^ inches ; with J inch allowance, that 
is the pi-oper waist length. 

2nd example. — Does one measure from the neck to the heel 37^ 
inches and has waist length llf inches, then it is not necessary 
to make an allowance. 

3rd example. — Does one measure from the neck to the heel 39J 
inches, then the waist-length is 12^ inches ; deduct J inch from 
the length of the waist coat, so that the waist length remains 
12 inches, etc. Thus is is possible to give the person, in the 
waist coat, a fine appearance. 



^ INCH Minus or Plus. 

6 37 2 392 4I2 432 45 47o 493 51 o 532 
10, 11 3 122 123 13 13, 14 142 15 15. 

+ Plus. 
— Minus. 



55, 57o 59^ 
I62 17' 17, 



ir 



II 



Se con d. Measurement . 



' Zweiter Maasslauf 



Thud Measure? I ieid 



/Jjdter Ataasvlaii/' 



5 — 



DESCRIPTION OF THE MASN LINES. 

No. 1. 

1st. Draw a large vertical line, pass down 1 inch and make the 
first mark x (as shown in model and described b}^ pnnctna- 
tion of the body.) 

2nd. Place the tape-measure at the first mark'' and ])a ss '.it, as 
given in the first measure from 1, 2, 3, 4, until the length 
of the garment. The first is the neck, second is the shoulder 
height, the third the heiglit of the armhole, fourth back and 
front, fifth seat and abdomen, sixth is the garment as seen in 
figure 3. 



Modell 2 



2' Ai'hwI/iShe 



HaModihdh f. 



j BackwuMv ^Arm-npeninti \ C/lPSt ividth 

' o- Ihidenbn'i/e ^ Arm- ^'l^di \ Brusthiejtp 



L^ 



BackwUlth 

I I i 

I ^-1 ic Hintmveich€' \ 



y-^: 



Front widik- 

Vort&trciche 



ITipividtJi 



Stowarh ni(/th 



IZJjL^r 



Lengtti 
Lmge 



— 6 — 



DESCRIPTION OF THE MAIN LINES. 

No. 2. 

1st. From the fourth horizontal line advance 1 inch ; draw from 
from the first point to the fourth line of the advanced inch 
an inclined vertical line, from there down to the sixth line. 

2nd. At the third horizontal line and slightly inclined, place the 
tape-measure, and measure the back width (as example 
8 inches.) 

3rd. As vertical line drawn, the measure of the upper arm 9 inches 
^ deducted remain 6 inches, draw another vertical line until 
to 3 ; place the measure on it and measure the width of the 
breast, 8 inches (as shown in model 1 and figure 3 and 4, 
2nd measure. ) 

4th. Divide the 6 inches equally and draw a vertical line until to 
5, that will give the curve of the lower arm and front and 
back of the hip ; make the fifth mark (as shown in figure 2.) 

5th. By breast width measure, allow one inch over the front 
measure. 



Modell 3 




— 7 — 

DESCRIPTION OF THE MAIN FIGURES. 

No. 3. 



1st. The square which Mes between the marks, divides the front 
lines of the lower part once more ; advance one inch. 

2nd. Divide the back lines of the upper part into three parts. 

3rd. Advance tin-ee inches on the horizontal line, draw obliquely 
a line on the small third of the arm opening. Pass down 3J 
inches and give the width of the back part of armhole, which 
depends on the fashion. 

4th. As much as you have advanced in front at the arm opening, 
go back at the sides, giving the form of the arm opening. 

5th. Place the tape-measure at the top of the arm opening, mea- 
sure to the back of the neck, go back 3 inches, which gives 
the back neck opening ; make a circular measure (notice 4th 
measure and model No. 3.) 

6th. Take the width of the back part of the shoulder, place it on 
the first mark, make a circular measure and deduct ^ inch. 
Draw a line obliquely upwards. 

7th. If the upper point of the shoulder is above the line, the 
person walks upright ; is the upper shoulder point on a level 
with the line, the person walks straight ; is the same below 
the line, the person walks stooped. The height of the neck 
opening must be according with the shoulder height, which 
gives the form of the nee -^ opening. Curve the shoulder 
lines (as shown in model) for stretching. 

8th. From the neck opening draw to breast and abdomen width 
a curved line, from there vertically of the part. 

9th. The back and front parts of abdomen add together. (Ex- 
ample : 7^, 12^ are 20 inches.) The back width (at fourth 
mark) is 5f inches, lay 5f inches at the abdomen front, 
measure to 29 inches. The difference of the measure falls 
away. 

10th. To the width of the loins allow 1 inch to the half, to make 
allowance for the pockets. 

11th. As much as falls away from the side and back part point, 
allow as increase to the length of the front part,, then tlie 
seat is equal to the front. 

12th. For a single-breasted Jacket allow If inch over, (as seen in- 
model No. 3.) 

13th. Shall the back-seam be cut, then give an allowance to the 
seam at the back width. 



Moaen4&5 




— 8 — 

DESCRIPTION OF THE SLEEVE. 

Models No. 4 & 5. 

Every sleeve of any garment, is drawn from the back part, 
(as seen in model 4.) 

1st. Divide the shoulder into halves, the lower part again, pass 
upwards l^ inch — which will give the round ball of the 
upper sleeve ; 1^ inch deeper is the cut-out of the lower 
sleeve. Shall the sleeve have a very round appearance, 
allow J inch more to the upper sleeve and ^ inch deeper at 
the lower sleeve. 

2nd. At the back part of the neck opening pass J inch into the 
lower sleeve, that is always the exact sleeve width, fitting 
into the arm opening. 

3rd. To get the length of the sleeve, lay the height of the arm- 
opening to the cut-out of the lower sleeve, and allow the 
measure to pass down until the required length is found. 
Examples 13^ to 32 as seen in model 5 and figure 4. 

4th. The exact width of the elbow comes of itself; what you 
give in at the vertical line comes out at the parallel (as seen 
in model 5) that is the fitting width of the sleeve. 

5th. The elbow of the sleeve you get by separating the lower 

sleeve from the cut-out. 
6th. The width at the hand is according to fashion, 6 to 7 inches 

half width. 
7th. The seam can be laid different ways (as seen in model 5.) 



Model! (i 




DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLAR. 

Model No. 6. 

1st. Measure exactly one-half of the neck opening. 

2nd. The width of tlie collar is 3| inches. Draw three lines from 
the middle, add two inches upwards ; allowance for the laying- 
over IJ inches. The length 9J inches ; lay the front part 
in tbe neck opening to the break, where they turn over, 
exactly to the mark ; pass with running curves to the seam 
of the collar (as seen in the model.) 

3rd. Draw the lower and upper parts ; iron in towards the curved 
middle lines of the collar, so that it will form a half moon. 
It must fit exactly in the neck openiiTg, so that it will not 
stand out. Must Jit exactly into the neck opening. 

4th. The goods and the lining must be cut bias. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET. 

The measure of this model No. 5, represents a stooped position 
of the body which is proven by the circular measure. It is a two- 
buttoned Jacket, well adapted for heavy goods and worn generally 
in Spring and Fall. 



Modell 7 




10 



SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET. 

Model No. 7. 

This model represents a horizontal portion of the body. It 
is a short single-breasted Jacket. Tight fitting in the waist and 
short in front. The pockets are supplied with lapels. The length 
of the garment is according to the fashion, or to the taste of the 
wearer. This model is well adapted for the summer. 



Model! 8 




11 



HIGH CLOSED JACKET. 

Model No. 8. 

This model has the same fitting waist as No. 6. The pockets 
are supplied with borders ; the sleeves with a small slit and 1 button- 
hole ; it is to be closed high up to the neck and supplied with 
turndown collar — a standing collar can also be made, according to 
the taste of the wearer. The front part contains 6 buttons with 
narrow lap. It is well adapted for Spring and Fall. As a hunting 
garment, take strong goods of light brown color. The collar and 
lapels of green cloth, horn buttons and broad belt around the 
waist. 



Modell 9 & 10 



— 12 




12 — 



HUNTING JACKET. 

Model Nos. 9 and lO. 

Is intended for winter wear ; goods and construction same as 
model No. 8 This Jacket is especially adapted for hunting. It 
is furnished with broad lap and muff pockets. In the left sleeve 
is a little pocket with lap, intended for cartridges or powder caps. 
It is furnished also with standing collar and extension belt. If it 
is cut long, it will be a splendid traveling garment, but then it must 
have a broad turndown collar. 



Modell 




13 — 



ULSTER. 

Model No. 11. 

This model is single-breasted. It is a winter garment, intended 
to be buttoned high up to the neck with a turndown collar, broad 
belt and long slit so as to make it comfortable in riding and driving ; 
muff pockets and lap pockets with large broad laps. A large 
Pelerine collar can also be buttoned on as represented in model 
No. 12. 



Modell i: 




— 14 — • 



COLLAR PELLERINE. 

Model No. 12. 

This model requires 4 measures ; width of neck, front and 
back length, and over the shoulders. The neck width divide into 
3 parts, ^ divide again into halves, make a circular measure, the 
diameter divide into 4 parts, ^ from the outside is the depth of the 
neck opening. The overlapping is according to the suit. This 
pellerine fits to Model No. 10, which is well adapted for a travel- 
ing garment. 

It is also a splendid Winter and Spring garment for ladies if 
it is cut long. 

The strono- strokes show the measures. 



ModelUa 




— 15 



PALETOT. 

Model No. 13. 

Is a top garment adapted to every season of the year. At- 
tention must be paid to the strength of the goods. It is made 
with broad laps and two rows of buttons ; the same can be made 
also with narrow lap and one row of buttons. The back is made 
with half length slit and covered lap. The pockets are made with 
lappels. The collar is so arranged that the ends lay over to the 
second buttonhole. 



Model! 14 




16 — 



HAVELOCK. 

Model No. 14. 

Represents also a winter garment ; it is the same Model as 
No. 9, but with a different pellerine and sleeve. The pellerine 
must be taken in the shoulder and side seams. The point of the 
upper sleeve must fit exactly to the shoulder point. If you wish 
to save goods, the sleeves can be omitted. Then the arm-opening 
must be cut out deeper, as the cloak is thrown over. This model rep- 
resents at the same time an ulster, with belt and long slit, and 
without the muff pockets. 

It must be here remarked that different models can be ar- 
ranged from each given model as seen from Models Nos. 19 and 20. 



Mod H l l .^&K) 




— 17 — 



VEST. 

Model No. 15. 

For the vests you must take the same measures. The main- 
lines are the same as seen in Model No. 1 . From the fourth hori- 
zontal line increase the length of the back part 3 inches. To ob- 
tain the length of the vest, place the measure on the 1st horizon- 
tal line and measure the whole length of the back, place the taken 
measure in the neck opening and let it pass down until the required 
measure is found, as shown in Model No. 13. The shoulder part 
of the front must be drawn out so that it is equal with the straight 
line. The shoulder part of the back must not be sewn on too 
closely. Both models showing erect body. 



TWO BUTTONED VEST- 

Model No. 16. 

Can be worn with turn-down or standing collar. The top or 
upper part of the collar must be ironed so, as described in the 
article on collars. 



Mo.JMl i7^,ia 




— 18 — 



SHAWL-VEST. 

Model No. 17. 

Is arranged for a horizontal position of the body, hollow 
breast, and a somewhat prominent abdomen. It has a shawl 
collar. The collar must fit exactly in the neck opening ; the bend 
of the collar must be well worked in. 



Model No. 18. 

Is a two buttoned shawl-vest for a horizontal and strong nor- 
mally built body. 



Morion 1Q 



19 




— 19 



TWO BUTTON COAT AND VEST. 

Model No. 19. 

This is a two button waistcoat to close in front and is gener- 
ally made of black cloth or other dark stuft. 

1st. The main lines are the same as those of main figure No. 1. 
2d. You have to observe strictly the description of main figure 

No. 2. 
3d. The description of waist length on page 4, is to be observed. 
4th. It is necessary that the back part of the waist be equal 

with the side part and sewed on smoothly ; the same with 

the shoulders. None of the parts must be too long, they 

must be cut exactly. 
5th. The side and hip parts must be well drawn out, well so as 

to give enough space for the frock. 
6th. You will find a vest model in the coat drawing. Only the 

shoulder of the vest is to be cut an inch smaller, as seen in 

models. 
7th. The sleeve is not drawn in the back of the vest, so that it 

is better to be observed. 



Model 120 




— 20 — 



ONE BUTTON COAT AND VEST. 

Model No. 20. 

The frock has two little darts, so that it falls smoothly over 
the hips. A vest model with standing collar is represented at the 
same time. To every model the vest can be cut along with it ; lay 
the paper double and pass over the drawing with a copying wheel, 
and the cut is finished ; with the sleeve it is the same. Pay par- 
ticular attention to the drawings of the arm opening and the back 
of the vest in the model. 



Moden21&^^ 




— 21 



COAT AND PALETOT, 

Models No. 21 and 22. 

This drawing shows two models, coat and six part paletot, 
for stooped body, with turn-down collar and intended to be buttoned 
high up. The frock is closed a little in front ; but can be worn in 
any suitable manner ; for cool weather it is generally worn closed. 
The length of the frock is according to the fashion. No model in 
this book can be unfashionable, as a good fit is always obtained, 
only the length and forms are changed. 



— 22 — 




WAIST COAT. 

Model No. 23. 

Refers to No. 20, is arranged with pleat borders and large 
frock and high collar. It is a Summer garment. A very good 
figure is necessary for this coat and is admirably adapted for young 



>rodell.?4 



















— 23 — 












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— 23 — 



WAIST COAT. 

Model No. 24. 

In this model the drawing of the sleeve is omitted, as it is bet- 
ter that one of the back parts is shown more precisely, so that in 
the following models it can be seen how the sleeve is drawn 
in one of the back parts. This model is a great favorite on ac- 
count of the absence of pleat borders, lappels and its simplicity 
and shortness. Goods of any quality and pattern can be used. 



Mni\i^\\2?^;i.?i\ 



24: 




— 24 — 



FROCK AND COAT. 

Models No. 25 and 26. 

Is a garment worn only on festive occasions. Are the frocks 
closed, then it represents a dress coat with lappel seam, which is a 
great favorite, is worn long, with three button holes on the lappels. 
The collar is partially finished with crotched work. The frocks 
must be equal with the lappel seam and fit well over each other. 



>rodell27 



25 — 




25 



LIVERY COAT. 

Model No. 27. 



This overcoat is worn only by servants or representatives of 
high establishments. The frock part can be arranged according to 
the outline model. Should the frock be very foldy, then set the 
back frock pleat three inches farther down. This model is arranged 
for a coachman ; shall it be for a servant, then the length is only 
three inches over the knee. The frock has not the width. Refer 
to model No. 26. 



26 — 



POLICEMAN SAQUE-COAT. 

Model No. 28. 

It is made to button high up, with turndown collar. ■ The 
goods are navy blue ; the buttons are according to regulation. 
The star is placed at the centre of the left breast. Length, ac- 
cording to the height of the person. 



Model! 29&:30 




— 27 — 



POLICE OVERCOAT. 

Model No. 29. 

Goods "and buttons according to regulation. Is cut with 
curved lappel-seam (as seen in the model). It has turndown col- 
lar, and 9 buttons on each side, 3 buttons on pleat borders, and 3 
on the sleeve. The length of the coat is 6 inches over the knee. 



POLICE DRESS COAT. 

Model No. SO. 

Has the same cut, high collar, each breast piece has 8 buttons, 
pleat border 2 buttons — sleeves the same. 



Modell 31 




SPANISH CLOAK. 

Model No. 31. 

This model has a very plain appearance, but still great care is 
necessary to make a good fitting garment. Three measures are 
necessary. 

1st. The length of the back, (make a mark.) 

2d. Place the tape to the neck and pass over the shoulders, and 
measure down the side, noticing the mark previously made. 

3d. The neck width divide into three parts, take ^ of one of the 
parts and make a circle. Find the length of the back 
(example 38), length of the front (38), then the side lengths 
■ (42.) 

4th. Divide the circle at the diameter in 4 parts, pass down ^ 
deeper in the front part, which gives the neck opening as 
seen in the model. 



Modell3^ 




— 29 



CLERICAL COWN. 

Model No. 32. 

For Protestant clergy-men. The goods are according to regu- 
lation. The double lines which pass over the back and breast 
width represent the collar. The broad lap in the front is two-thirds 
breast width which is gathered, and from the arm opening to the 
vertical breast line divided into little pleats, in the back it is the 
same. The sleeve has the entire back width, as seen in the model. 
The sleeve is also gathered until the width of the arm opening is 
reached. The inner sleeve has the same width as any other coat 
sleeve. Collar high. The length is regulated to the ankles. 



M()aell33 



30' 




— 30 — 



CLERICAL COWN. 

Model No. 33. 

For Catholic clergymen. The goods are according to the 
regulation. It is worn with high collar. The sleeves are made 
with a slit, broad wisp and three button holes. The front is 
arranged to be buttoned, as seen in the model. The length is 
regulated to the ankles. 



Modell3l. 




;i — 



OFFICIAL COAT. 

Model No. 34. 

This coat is worn especially in tbe German Empire by every 
officer and corporation official. Certain decorations indicate the 
difference. The cut is the same. 



M odH I ^T) 




- 32 — 



OFFICIAL LONG COAT. 

Model No. SB. 

This top garment is furnished with belt and a long slit with 
button-holes. Has the same description as Model No. 34. The 
length is regulated to the middle of the calf. 



MocloU3() 




— 33 — 



UNIFORM. 

Model No. 36. 

This uniform is arranged with tight frock, standing collar 
and folded borders, and with two buttons. Is worn in Saxony by 
the militia and officials. The differences are in the cloth, buttons 
and epaulets. 



Modell37 




34 



UNIFORM. 

Model No, 37. 

This uniform has a wide frock, standing collar, folded borders 
and three buttons, but is worn in Prussia by military and civil 
officials. The differences are the same as in Model No. 36. 



Modell38 




— 35 — 

THE FRONT PART OF PANTALOONS. 

Model No. 38. 

Draw a vertical line of the same length as the pantaloons. 

1st. Place the measure at the top and measure the knee-length 
and side-length. Note each one. 

2d. The inside seam is measured from below. 

3d. From the given inside length draw a horizontal line. 

4th. Divide the seat into four parts (example: 32 in. ^ is 8 in.), 
deduct 1 in. from the front part (7 inches) ; place the mea- 
sure at the inside seam and measure the seat (example : 7 
inches.) 

5th. Divide the quarter of the seat- width again (example, 3| in.) 

6th. This eighth divide again into three parts, (as seen in the 
model. ) 

7th. From the seat on the line go in one inch at the knee and 
bottom. 

8th. The wisp-width is also divided into 4 parts ; deduct 1 inch 
and add it to the back part ; at the seat-width it is the same. 

9th. Does anyone measure 30 inches wisp-width, then go J inch 
deeper on the upper perpendicular line. 

10th. Does anyone measure 35 inches, the line is unchanged. 

11th. Does anyone measure 40 inches, go J inch over the line ; 
that is a stout person, etc. 



Model! 39 




— 36 — 



NORMAL PANTALOONS. 

Model No. 39. 

Is a measure for slim und weak persons. 
1st. Place the front part on the piece which is to be the back 
part, and allow one inch on the side of the seat and V point, 
as represented in the model. 

2d. Hold the measure on the knee and bring it up to the hip of 
the front part and make outwardly a circular measure. 

3d. Hold the measure in the middle of the seat, pass from the 
hip upwards, which gives the height of the back part. 

4th. The knee and foot-width is according to the fashion. 

5th. The front parts are drawn out at the sides and in the middle 
ironed in, so that the curve of the back part fits into the front 
part. 

6th. The fitting lower width of the front part you obtain by divid- 
ing the quarter of the seat- width into 3 parts, and put § of 
the same to the lower width. 



Model! 40 




37 



X PANTALOONS. 

Model No. 40. 

They are so called, because there are people wliose knees are 
turned inwardly and knock together, which gives them the shape 
of the letter X. To hide this defect you draw a vertical line 
from the V point to the bottom ; at the knee go in 1 inch, (as seen 
in the model. ) At the side of the knee draw the back part out, in 
the middle iron it in ; then the pantaloons are fuller between the 
legs, and give the person a better appearance. 



Modpil 41 



— 38 




— 38 



O PANTALOONS. 

Model No. 41. 

There are many people whose legs are turned outward like a 

bow, which gives them the appearance of the letter O. To hide 

this defect, 

Ist. At the lower part of the main line go in two inches and draw 
from there a vertical line to the seat. 

2d. From the V point to the bottom draw a vertical line, and at 
the knees go 2 inches inwardly, in the calf on the main line 
curved out. The curve is ironed in, so that the edge be- 
comes straight. The side of the back part draw out at the 
knee and iron in in the middle. In this way the bow-legs 
are hid. 



^^odell42 



— 39 — 




:M1_J L. 



39 



PANTALOONS FOR STOUT MEN. 

Model No. 42. 

At the horizontal line pass J of an inch higher, form the 
stomach and wisp line a little curved ; they are well worked in, 
so that the bodj' fits in well. All the other parts according to the 
measure. 



ModelU344& 1.: 



— 40 — 




— 40 — 



THREE DIFFERENT PANTALOONS. 

Models Nos. 43 to 45. 

1st. The right-angular main line to the inside seam is a wide 
knee pantaloon for boys ; can be worn also with a rubber 
band drawn in. 

2d. Is a knee paataloon with buckles ; to it belong long leggins ; 
are only worn by servants and coachmen. 

3d. The riding pantaloons are worn to the ancles with 3 lacing 
holes and a broad ribbon drawn to them, in the inside seam 
buttoned. The foot part must rest in the ribbon ; then 
fasten it as much as convenient. 



A[().]o]li()&IV 




41 — 



Model Nos. 46 and 47. 

Represents two kinds of Leggings. 

1st. Draw a right-angled line, measure from above to the ankles 

and to the heel; make a mark. 
2d. Measure from the ankle to the top, divide the measurement 

into four parts ; the upper quarter is the centre of the calf. 
3d. From the first joint of the foot to the heel make a circular 

measure. 
4th. Place the measure on the heel and measure the front length 

and foot width. (See model.) 
5th. The ankle-legging has the same measurements. 



Moden48&49 



42 



Fig. 48. 




42 — 



LADIES' FIGURES. 

Models 48 and 49. 

1st. The punctuation and measurements are the same as seen in 
Fig. 1 to 4 (page 1 and 2). The main hnes remain the same 
as in Fig. 1, page 5. 

2d. In the description of Model No. 2, page 6, in the 11th de- 
tail, do just the contrary, so that the back and side of the 
lap is the same as the front parts,, as seen in the Model 
No. 50. 

3d. The shoulder of the front and back parts are slightly curved. 



Model! 50 &:^ I 



43 




— 43 — 



Ladies' Morning Robe and Description of 
the Sleeve. 

Model No. BO. 

Is the same as the description of Sleeve No. 4 and 5, page 8. 
The upper sleeve has a full shape and the lower sleeve is cut out 
only IJ inches. The upper sleeve must have no width on the full 
puff, so that it fits smoothly in the arm-opening. The placing of 
the seams and width depend on the fashion. 



Mo(i(>]i:; 



44 




44 



LADIES' JACKET. 

Model No. B2. 

The Jacket is tight-fitting, furnished with darts, which give 
the allowed width of the front. Is it to be buttoned in the back, 
then there must be an allowance to the under lap. Is it to be 
double-breasted, then the laps must be broad. Collar and trim- 
ming according to fashion. 



>rodeiir);j 



— 45 




— 45 — 



Tight-fitting Ladies' Paletot. 

Model No. 53. 

With two buttons and turn-down collar, it is a very favorite 
garment, suitable for every season of the year, for adults and 
children. If it should not be tight-fitting in the front, leave the 
darts away, it then receives a smooth appearance. The trimmings 
are according to the fashion or the taste of the wearer. The 
seams can be transferred at pleasure. Every garment can be di- 
vided into several parts, but then the other seams must be allowed 
for. 



Modell.')k.').j 



— 46 — 




46 



Waist Jacket and Riding Dress. 

Model Nos. 54 and 55. 

Is a Wnist Jacket which can be worn with any dress ; can 
also be adapted to the riding dress. The skirt has a simple con- 
struction. 
1st. Measure from the hip another time as much as the front 

part. 
2d. The same of the back part. 
3d. Diviile the entire width into 4 parts ; the front and back 

parts are laid in broad folds. 
4th. The two centre parts are laid in small folds, and in finishing 

the skirt, are divided exactly in the hip, so that they become 

high. 
5th. The Iront and back parts must be cut bias. (See Model.) 
6th. The skirt must be 12 inches over the measure. 
7th. The back part also the front part, can be divided in several 

parts according to fashion. 
8th. A narrow standing collar and tight sleeve are best suited for 

this riding dress. 
9th. The goods for riding habits should be dark shaded and 

plain. 



1 



